The Musée de l'Hydraviation in Biscarosse was a little out of the way - four hours' drive - but looked hopeful enough for me to request it.
I was very excited to be travelling through Gascony, breeding-ground of brave Musketeers. We stopped on the way in Bergerac to pay homage to Cyrano (in fact the real-life version didn't come from there at all, but changed his name to impress the Gascons in his regiment).
There are two statues to the long-nosed duellist. The old one is the same age as me:
The new one is in Technicolor:
What with this side trip, it was 4PM by the time we arrived in Biscarrosse. To my disappointment, the museum was in the town; I'd pictured it by the lake itself, with seaplanes bobbing at anchor.
In fact there are very few actual planes at the museum, mostly due to the effects of salt water on fragile aircraft skins.
There are, however, paintings, photos, ephemera, propellers, models and a short film, all of which evoke the golden age of the flying boat.
I sighed for the days when you could be transported to another continent in airborne luxury, landing nightly by some sunset shore to enjoy a sumptuous dinner before bed in your very own cabin. And those names, promising exotic adventure: Canopus! Croix du Sud!
I was fairly restrained in the gift shop (mostly because there were no T-shirts for sizes between 10-year-old child and medium adult), but I did buy a present for my absent scooter: a 'Danger! Ejection Seat!' sticker.
Ice cream flavour of the day: prune and Armagnac at the Bar St-Exupéry, Biscarrosse.