I spent a long weekend in Berlin from 12 to 16 October; a trip I was going to make in early September, but postponed on the grounds that I probably wouldn't have enjoyed it much.
I also discovered that - for everyone who asked - having a metal rod in your leg does indeed set off the body scanner at airports.
I was staying with a friend who lives in Mariendorf, to the south of the city. She was out on the evening of my arrival but left her housekey in a Secret Place for me to pick up, which felt appropriate for the City of Spies. So I hung out with her cats, Max and Moritz, until she got in.
The next day was Friday, and I'd booked myself on a
tour of the old Tempelhof airport. Grandiose showpiece in the 1930s; USAF base for divided Berlin and one of three landing-site for the Berlin Airlift, along with Gatow and Tegel; finally closed in 2008.
This was a great treat for someone who enjoys both aviation and 20th century architecture. The vast, empty arrivals/departures hall with its checkin desks (many for fictional airlines; it's frequently used as a filming location), the old Restaurant sign, the Second World War bomb shelter with cheery cartoons painted on the walls and - surprise! - an Ilyushin Il-14 and Focke-Wulf Condor in one of the hangars. "Oh! I forgot we have some planes here at the moment!" claimed our guide as we all
ooohed in appreciation.



My friend is a scootering acquaintance, and I'd arranged to hire a Vespa so we could ride out to the
aviation museum at Gatow on Saturday. I picked it up on Friday night and we rode through the darkening city. The original plan for the evening had fallen through and we ended up seeing
Rocky Horror Picture Show cabaret at a friendly little gay bar on the outskirts, an experience I certainly wouldn't have had on my own.
Then Gatow on Saturday morning, riding out of the city into the autumn countryside. This was the RAF's base, where they kept a mighty strength of two Chipmunks (inoffensive-looking little two-seaters, in fact used for checking out the lay of the Soviet land). One hangar now holds beautifully restored aircraft and a history of flight, but I preferred the lineup of Cold War planes outside, their paintwork shabby and fading.


It was a beautiful if chilly day, but it turned to rain in the evening as we rode through the city centre to meet friends for dinner.
Sunday was quieter; we rode to a Turkish restaurant for breakfast, my friend taught me the basics of backgammon, I went for a walk in the nearby cemetery and saw red squirrels. While my friend went out to dinner, I returned the scoot then asked Google where I could get something to eat nearby. When I noticed a cafe specialising in crepes and waffles, Nutela Rosé, it had to be done. (All the other customers either had small children or were clearly on an Instagram mission. Yes, that's candyfloss. And marshmallows. I regret nothing.)

Monday morning I let myself out of the flat and did some supermarket shopping before the trip by bus and S-bahn to the airport, where my armoured, abrasion-resistant motorcycle jeans upset the security staff so much they took me to a cubicle and made me unbutton them. Then I spent 15 minutes in a queue for passport control while passengers from countries still in the EU breezed past. It was a relief to arrive at Gatwick and get back on my own motorbike, which conveyed me home inside half an hour.